How to Build a Steel Cart for 55 Gallon Drums

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55 gallon steel drums are handy to store all sorts of things in. They don’t have to be used for just burn barrels.

There are a bunch of reasons to have steel barrels around. They can be used for storing many liquids. You can also use them to store solids (ringed barrels with removable lids). The problem with not having a cart under the barrel is that they are very unwieldy to move as a 55 gallon drum of anything liquid is going to be more than 300lbs. If you use barrels to store other things, like say scrap steel, they can be even heavier. If you happen to use a steel barrel for a dust collection system, water quencher, etc, they’re all heavy and way more convenient to use if you can move them.

The nice thing about steel drums is that they are fairly standard. They have a 2″ NPS (similar to NPT, but straight thread) and a 3/4″ NPT port. This allows you to use a common rotary vane pump to pump things like oil, gasoline, diesel, etc or use them for other projects like storing other liquids.

I happen to use a Fill-Rite SD62 and FR112 pump. When I’m done using them I do make sure I run a light oil through them to make sure the vanes to rust up.

Tools need:

Welder – any kind will do but even a $100 Harbor Freight flux-core wire welder is sufficient.
Something to cut metal with, like an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel
Drill, cordless or corded, drill bits
Basic hand tools

Parts needed:

8′ piece of 1 1/2″ 1/8″ wall angle iron (1.5×1.5x.125″ 96″ long), cut two pieces at ~23.5″ and two pieces at 24″
Some additional 1/8″ steel, I used 11 gauge 4″ wide steel, two pieces 23.5″ long, used for supporting the mounting of the casters and barrel
Fasteners, I prefer 5/16″ NC Grade 8
Two swivel casters from Harbor Freight #69900 or this one from Amazon
Two fixed casters from Harbor Freight #69905 or this one from Amazon
Note: You can use smaller casters but large ones roll nicer over imperfections in the floor.

Barrel Cart, Checking that the frame of the cart will fit the barrel — After cutting the angle iron, weld it into a box that measures approximately 24×24. Test fit on a barrel. If you look carefully you can see Sharpie marks for the casters before drilling/tapping.

Barrel Cart, Frame welded up, nuts welded on for casters/holes threaded, and washers welded on for tie down points — Once it is square, weld it up the rest of the way. Add the flat stock for additional support for the casters. I prefer to drill/tap for 5/16″ fasteners and/or also weld nuts in place. It is easier than dealing with a non-captive nut. There are nuts welded in the corners for tie down points for ratchet straps.

Barrel Cart, Barrel being primed with rust converter — It is best if you use a high quality barrel. Mobil oil barrels are of decent quality and aren’t usually rusty inside. Most places will let you have them for $25 or less. They’re usually way nicer and better condition that the average steel barrel. The barrel is being primed with rust converter.

Barrel Cart, Barrel set on top — Attach the wheels to the cart with the fasteners. You can see the barrel is now partially painted.

Barrel Cart, Barrel tied down — Barrel semi-painted and tiedowns atached. The tiedowns are there to make it more difficult to push the barrel off the cart if you have a habit of pushing on the barrel.

How to Build a Steel Cart for 55 Gallon Drums

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